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Anet A8 with MKS Gen 1.4 Help (2 replies)

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I have an anet a8 with an MKS Gen 1.4 Mainboard and MKS TFT LCD also with 8825 Drivers.
Having a few problems trying to get it to run. I can move the motors 1 way only. Recc optimal voltage for 8825 unable to measure the amps as i do not have a multimeter with Amps.
Motors are Busheng Stepper motors
Drivers are 8825
External MOS Fet Controller for HB
External Driver adapter for 2nd Z Axis
Power Supply is ATX Silencer 425w

Filiment not extruding (1 reply)

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Hi,

I just built a RepRapGuru Prusa i3 v2. I have a level bed, voltages at .550, extruder at 220, bed at 70. Unless i manually push the filament through it does not extrude anything. Since I am new I am sure I missed something. Can anyone help shed light on this. Oh yeah Hatchbox PLA filament.

Thanks,

ALUNAR 3D Printers (1 reply)

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Hello all, I'm new here so please be nice :-)

I saw my first 3D printer in action the other day and now I want one! I've done a bit of research and feel like I'd like to 'dip my toe' in 3D printing, I do not want to break the bank but I also don't want to buy something that will never work.

I've found the brand ALUNAR have a sale on their printers at the moment ranging from $180-$228USD. Delivery to Australia is a bit of a sting, but even with another $100USD postage they are a bargain. They seem to be Prusa i3 clones.

I guess my first question is - is the ALUNAR brand OK to try? I realise the general advice will be "don't buy anything but the best" but that's not in my budget. If however ALUNAR are absolute junk & it's unlikely to work then I would avoid them.

If they're OK for a starter, is this the model to go for? M508:

[www.alunar.net]

There's a further discount applied at checkout so all their models are within $30USD of each other. Would the M606, M605, M506 or M505 be better?

TronXY p802ma Marlin missing menus (no replies)

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Just bought a tronXY p802ma with Marlin 1.0 and half the menu commands are missing
Could'nt find how to load filament checked the menu Pdf and tune was missing from main menu which load filament was under and notice a lot of other stuff missing including power on and power off
So can't even load filament
Anyone no why please help
Thanks

Marlin/Arduino (2 replies)

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Hi guys mi trying to upload new firmware ( Marlin / Arduino ) using a new laptop and its giving this error.



Arduino: 1.5.8 (Windows 8), Board: "Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avr-g++ -c -g -Os -w -fno-exceptions -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -fno-threadsafe-statics -MMD -mmcu=atmega2560 -DF_CPU=16000000L -DARDUINO=158 -DARDUINO_AVR_MEGA2560 -DARDUINO_ARCH_AVR -IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino -IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\variants\mega -IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\libraries\Wire -IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\LiquidCrystal\src -IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\libraries\SPI C:\Users\gisal\AppData\Local\Temp\build5554648623669385129.tmp\temperature.cpp -o C:\Users\gisal\AppData\Local\Temp\build5554648623669385129.tmp\temperature.cpp.o

C:\Users\gisal\AppData\Local\Temp\build5554648623669385129.tmp\temperature.cpp: In function 'void manage_heater()':
C:\Users\gisal\AppData\Local\Temp\build5554648623669385129.tmp\temperature.cpp:665:1: error: unable to find a register to spill in class 'POINTER_REGS'
}
^
C:\Users\gisal\AppData\Local\Temp\build5554648623669385129.tmp\temperature.cpp:665:1: error: this is the insn:
(insn 98 97 100 4 (set (reg/v:SF 103 [ pid_input ])
(mem:SF (post_inc:HI (reg:HI 146 [ ivtmp.209 ])) [4 MEM[base: _110, offset: 0B]+0 S4 A8])) C:\Users\gisal\AppData\Local\Temp\build5554648623669385129.tmp\temperature.cpp:449 99 {*movsf}
(expr_list:REG_INC (reg:HI 146 [ ivtmp.209 ])
(nil)))
C:\Users\gisal\AppData\Local\Temp\build5554648623669385129.tmp\temperature.cpp:665: confused by earlier errors, bailing out
Error compiling.

How do you load file men on Marlin v1 (1 reply)

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Menus are confusing can't find load filament
My old printer was easy but thermastat went so I bought a tronXY p802ma
I thought menus were missing cos the menu PDFs showed more but I have seen menu trees the same as mine

echo:endstops hit: ERROR (2 replies)

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Hi
I just bought a prusa i3 based 3d printer, I connected everything as I saw in the manual like this picture: [www.smartdiys.com]

But the problem is here, when I trying to check the printer manually in pronterface program, I only can move the extruder in one side(z-axis downward, x-axis leftside, and y-axis up to front of printer) and when I try to move it in against sides it can't move! and gives me the endstop maeesage!

How can I fix this?

I use this firmware :[ufile.io]
May you say which line of which file should be changed for that?

Looking for a proper firmware for my prusa i3 (no replies)

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I have a prusa i3 based printer, it's specs are these:

Arduino mega 2560
Ramps 1.4
Lead screw for Z-Axis (8mm diameter with 2mm pitch i think(I measured distance between two threads and it was 2mm)
Nema 17 stepper motors
MK8 compact extruder
And 2004 LCD with onboard SD card slot

I tested the marlin firmware that the vendor gave me (it's here [uploadfiles.io]) but it has a problem in Y-Axis and I couldn't solve that(when I push Y+ or Y- in pronterface it acts weird different in any time ...goes forward, back, etc) ! Also extruder doesn't work. Also D08 and D09 doesn't work (I connected heatbed to D08 and extra cooler fan for ramps board to d09 but they don't work! only D10 works)

I am loocking for a good firmware

Bed levelling issues (1 reply)

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I've managed to figure out loading the filament
Now just struggling to bed level on tronXY p802ma
Too close no extrusion and with aslight adjustment it extrudes but pla lifts from build plate
I have blue tape on heat bed

D08 and D09 pins on the Ramps 1.4 don't work! (no replies)

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I have a prusa i3 based 3d printer. I solved many problems and it runs good. the only problem is here, the D8 and D9 pins don't work! It means I have no heated bed and can't use D09 for cooling fan for the boards!

How can I fix that?

Also I have another question and don't like to creat another topic:
What do should I do after finishing the print? I tested a print and after printing extruder went to front corner. Can I shut down printer as soon as the print completed? or I must do some other things to prevent clogging the nozzle and etc! (sorry if this is a stupid question)

How to configure nozzle fan for prusa i3 with ramps1.4? (1 reply)

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Hi
I have connected my nozzle fan to D09 pin. but it doesn't work at all! How should I configure it to work?

Who knows this prusa ? (no replies)

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hi everyone

First sry for my bad english. I have seen this printer on aliexpress [www.aliexpress.com]. Can´t find any reviews or youtube vids about this one.

May someone of you have a link for me

greetings

Hictop 3DP-20 (Creality CR-10 3D printer in sheeps clothing?) (no replies)

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Hi there, I've been away a while, happily printing on my Folgertech Prusa i3 Acrylic 3D printing, and I've gotten the bug to buy and build something larger... :)
I saw the Creality CR-10 watched all the video's and thought this is a good one... Because I'm in Canada and the exchange rate sucks, I will end up paying
$518.00 for the printer + 256.00 shipping (price and shipping costs fluctuate, when the printer price goes down the shipping price goes up. If the printer price goes back up,
then the shipping goes down... all in all it will be about $778.50 roughly to have it shipped to me in Canada. Then on top of that there will most likely be import and duty taxes on it.
which may take the price into the $850.00 price range.... so that lovely 400.00 U.S. printer ends up costing quite a bit more. Kinda got tired of that game.

Then I noticed a Hictop 3DP-20 printer, identical to the Creality CR-10, the stepper motor is even labeled with a creality sticker...
the cost of this printer is $671.00 canadian including delivery within two weeks... Bonus I'm thinking, even if i have to pay duty on it, it will still be cheaper...( I hope )
so I may pull the trigger on this one this evening...

there are two ebayer's selling it... I think i will log my experience here with both the seller, and the build, much like I did with my folgertech i3 acrylic printer.
there is a youtube video on this printer from the Geek Seek guys. a good video and review. Hoping to see more video's on it. :)
I may post a few of my own. :)

[www.youtube.com] Geek Seek

[www.youtube.com] Hictop 3DP-20 construction video


Wish me luck :)

I am looking for this X-carriage stl file (1 reply)

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My X-carriage broke when I was tightening belt. It has some special part to keeping belt tight. Is there STL file of this part to print it again?
This is my part photo: [up2www.com]

Communication timeout - reset send buffer block (no replies)

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Firstly, I ordered this kit and built it.
[www.amazon.com]

I had it and running and printed a few test prints, after which I took some time to calibrate things and had to file down part of the acrylic frame because a screw was catching on it whenever the bed moved. When I turned my printer back on it shorted out and burnt a hole in the ramps board. (I think some filings got in the power supply because of a careless mistake I now regret) I quickly unplugged it and order a new arduino and ramps board. Here are the links for the specific replacements I ordered:
Arduino: [www.amazon.com]
Ramps:
[www.amazon.com]

After replacing the parts I reset the voltage on the stepper motor drivers to .55 and uploaded the code found here:
goo.gl/csU6RI

When I connect it with repetier host I get this:
13:49:56.736 : OpenGL version:4.3.0 - Build 10.18.15.4279
13:49:56.738 : OpenGL extensions:GL_EXT_blend_minmax
13:49:56.738 : OpenGL renderer:Intel(R) HD Graphics 4400
13:49:56.738 : Using fast VBOs for rendering is possible
13:50:02.777 : No start signal detected - forcing start
13:50:02.835 : N1 M110*34
13:50:02.835 : N2 M115*36
13:50:02.835 : N4 M114*35
13:50:02.835 : N5 M111 S6*98
13:50:42.922 : Communication timeout - reset send buffer block
13:50:42.925 : N6 T0*60
13:50:42.926 : N7 M80*28
13:51:28.855 : Communication timeout - reset send buffer block
13:52:17.854 : Communication timeout - reset send buffer block
13:53:06.856 : Communication timeout - reset send buffer block

Note: any manual commands sent don't go through (commands waiting), but that's expected with the communication timeout.

The port is set correctly and is not on auto, the baudrate is set to 250000 on both repetier and marlin. I tried to change the baudrate on both to 115200 but when I tried to upload the code to the arduino I received this error:

avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer
An error occurred while uploading the sketch

The board is set as: Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560
processor: ATmega2560 (Mega 2560) the port is selected correctly.
I have no idea what is causing this error. I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling the latest version of arduino. Updating USB drivers. Replacing the board. Etc. But I can only get the code to upload the very first time (right out of the box, first upload for the board) and any time after that I get that error.

I have wasted countless days trying to troubleshoot this but I keep ending up with this communication error. Any help is appreciated, I've read several forums and nothing has fixed this.

Extruder upgrade on Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro B ? (no replies)

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I have this Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro B since a few months.
Overall I am happy about the machine since it did its job this far.
It required the usual modifications to the Z carriage to fix Z-axis artifact, and I had to repair the pin that keeps the bearing pushing the filament against the motor wheel, other than that I can't complain about the machine, and print quality.
I have used about half a roll of PLA since I got it, so I am not a "serial printer", basically I print parts I design when I need them.

Now it seems like I am running into under extrusion issues with the MK8 extruder it came with from the factory, with a 0.3 tip.
Finally I removed the tip, cleaned it thouroughly as suggested in various videos, including running a 0.3 piece of wire (I used a lenght of 0.3 kantal wire from my ecig stock) into the tip to remove any obstructions.
It printed fine for an hour or two and then it went back to inconsistent extrusion.
The printer is equipped with a 60mm blower fan for cooling the filament. It is fitted to a nozzle to keep the airflow away from the tip, however although it helps print quality it seems to have an influence on underextrusion. I print at 220° and 75° when the fan is on and 210°-65° in prints which do not require cooling.

I have read many Prusa I3 users advice upgrading to the E3DV6 hot end.
I am not sure this is the best solution for me at this time, as I print only PLA (this far) and don't plan to set up a bowden feeder.
As I said previously I didnt have problems for about half a roll so maybe it's just time to replace the (brass) tip ?
What if I upgrade to a larger, say 0.4 tip instead of 0.3 ? Would it help with underextrusion ? Maybe a better quality tip like the Micro Swiss ? (not even sure it exists for the MK8 though).

I am aware the E3DV6 is a better extruder, but I'd rather avoid wasting a lot of time in modifications if I can solve my problems just by replacing the tip.

Should I decide to install an E3Dv6 onto the current direct extruder (there are printable brackets for it on thingyverse), do i have to edit the firmware as well ? My machine comes with a GT2560 board.

Any suggestion greatly appreciated.

Repetier communication timeout help (no replies)

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Finally made some progress and got the firmware flashed to the Mega. I open Repetier to hopefully start calibrating the printer. The printer says it connects, but I get no responses from the manual controls. If I try to turn on the heater bed or extruder, the log at the bottom says no start command- forcing start. Then shortly after I get an error that says communication timeout-resend buffer block. Basically I'm stuck here for days now and really need help.

If the 5v voltage regulator is burnt, and the printer only powers when USB is used, could it be a bad board? This is a brand new build from Folger tech kit.

Thanks

New heated bed with more power - cable cross section (1 reply)

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Hi,

I upgraded to a new heated bed with a silicone heater with 300 Watts at 12V. Before I had about 200 Watts at 15V.

The cables have a cable cross section of 2,5 mm². Doing the math the new one will draw 25 Amps (old one 13,3 A).

The bed is well insulated and at 50°C its not on very often, so the cables don't heat up.

When the bed is set to 100°C the cables get a little bit wormer after a few minutes (about 30°C, room temp 24°C).

So my question is, is it still save to use 2,5mm² cables?

heatbed question (2 replies)

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I have an aluminum build plate with a silicone heater. The silicone heater keeps burning things up on the circuit board from too much power draw, so I am going to replace it. Since I have print bite on the aluminum, I was going to attach an MK2 PCB heatbed to it. Would I attach it with heat transfer tape? Or is there some other method to follow?

Most current Arduino/Marlin/Repetier/Windows7 version combo (no replies)

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Been a while (6 months) since I used my Folgertech i3 Acrylic. Having to start anew as my old computer was stolen. I'm using Windows 7 and was wondering which is the best Arduino/Marlin/RepetierHost firmware combination. I have a 2004 LCD screen and would like to use it. Trying to remember which versions I was using before...not sure. Any help would be great. Thanks
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